The Fishermen’s Trail runs along the coast of Southern Portugal. The trail does not go through high mountains or remote nature, is well marked and frequently visited and has access to all kinds of facilities. Even though I also like to challenge myself with tougher climbs and enjoy a good mountainous vista, this trail along the coast definitely has its charm and place as well.
The multi-day walk on the sandy paths gives a great insight into the local culture, food and history. Not to mention the daily views of the endless blue sea and the possibilities for refreshing swims.
Table of contents
- Our experience / what to expect from Fishermen's TrailOur experience / what to expect from Fishermen's Trail
- Our routeOur route
- Accommodation possibilitiesAccommodation possibilities
- Cost of hiking the Fishermen's TrailCost of hiking the Fishermen's Trail
- The trail and reccommendationsThe trail and reccommendations
What to expect from the Fishermen's Trail?
There are no mountains, so is it an easy trail? Yes and no. If you have previous experience in pushing uphill and being out of breath in high altitudes, then hiking along the coast of Portugal is going to be easier for you, as you know how to push your body to the limits. The Fishermen’s Trail becomes harder when walking in the blazing sun through the soft sand and pushing several stages into one day. But if you decide to stay in guesthouses (and in that way only carry a day pack), choose a season with milder temperatures and don’t push beyond the daily recommended stages, then you will do just fine.
The Fishermen’s Trail can be a great choice for somebody looking to do their first long-distance hike, but also for someone with more experience looking for a little more gentle trail with great food all around.
Our route
Our route choice comes from the decision to also carry camping gear. Even though there is accommodation available, it can get quite expensive. There are not many hostels along the trail and the guesthouses/hotels can easily charge 100 € for a room per night if you don’t book early enough.
Another thing to consider is that wild camping in Portugal is illegal, but there are campsites available. Not every campsite is directly on the trail, though, and sometimes it is necessary to sidetrack for a few extra kilometres.
For the official GPX and KML files, please visit the Rota Vicentina website.
Day 1: Sines -> Porto Covo
We take a bus from Lisbon to Sines in the morning (travel time 2h 30 min). After walking around a bit, we find a taxi to take us to the trailhead in Praia de São Torpes. We start walking a little before 4 pm.
After a short stretch on the road, the trail turns to the sand dunes. We walk on the soft sand with the road on our left shoulder and sea on our right. As it is already late in day, the sun is mild and slowly turning golden. We stop to turn around and see the industrial harbour of Sines in the distance.
As usual, the first kilometres on the trail take some time to get used to the backpack and loosen up the legs. Luckily, the first day is a short introduction of what is to come. After about 3 hours and 10 kilometres, we arrive in a traditional fishing village, Porto Covo. We have decided to stay in the campsite (Camping Porto Covo), which is a little out of the village centre.
Together with extra steps in the morning, we have walked 16 kilometres on the first day of hiking the Fishermen’s Trail in Portugal.
Day 2: Porto Covo -> Vila Nova de Milfontes
After packing up, we walk through the quiet streets lined by white and blue houses. The morning is foggy, and our bodies are feeling the first steps on the trail from the day before.
Today, the trail follows the dunes 90 % of the time. The sun comes out, and there is barely any shade. Each step takes an extra effort to wade through the soft sand. After a few hours, we finally find some bushes to take shelter from the midday sun. It is the 18th of September, so we were hoping for cooler weather, but the summer is still going strong at this point.
We take a break for a swim. We observe and take photos of surfers on another beach. We notice tens of campervans. We see fishermen on high cliffs with their long rods out to the sea. And by the end of a long day, we reach a guest house (that we had booked the day before) in Vila Nova de Milfontes.
The phone shows 34 000 steps and 26 kilometers, most of them in the sand.
Day 3: Vila Nova de Milfontes -> Almograve
We begin the day with a visit to a cafe and enjoy the Portuguese famous pastries, Pastéis de Nata.
After leaving the town, we start to notice the different landscape and vegetation. There are still no trees, but the bushes are taller now. Sometimes requiring us to push through the thick growth. But the trail is a little bit less on the sand now, which makes walking a bit easier. We have another break for swimming, and right before Almograve, we make a longer stop for cooking noodles on the beach.
Today, we decide to push a little bit further and find a quiet spot nestled among the red dunes. We pitch on the sand at sunset and sit down to witness a gorgeous sunset on the horizon.
Day 4: Almograve -> Zambujeira do Mar
Not to stick around unnecessarily long, we pack up at sunrise, leave no trace, and begin another day on the Fishermen’s Trail. The colours of the sand and rocks over the following kilometres are just stunning. Even though we are walking on the same coastline, the landscape keeps on surprising.
By now, the shoulders are getting used to the backpack, and the muscles in the legs are starting to understand what they are doing here. We enjoy a late breakfast on the edge of a cliff. Sandy trails change with gravel or soil, and by the end of day 4, we reach Zambujeira do Mar. After some beers and a dinner in the town, we have another kilometre to walk away from the trail, to reach an official campsite, Camping Villa Park Zambujeira.
Day 5: Zambujeira do Mar -> Odeceixe
Another beautiful day on the Fishermen’s Trail. We see beautiful empty beaches. The trail goes through some taller vegetation and briefly joins the road as well. The coast has some higher cliffs, and we start to see some very interesting geological shapes. The folds that were formed in horizontal position have been pushed up, and some strata are currently even vertically.
We reach the beach of Odeceixe and grab a few photos from one of the most well-known viewpoints on this trail. Truth be told, it does not feel special at this point, as there have been so many more epic views on the trail. We take the chance and go for a dip in the river that flows into the sea.
We sit down for some very much-needed burgers in Odeceixa and finally walk to the official campsite, which is 2 kilometres off-trail (4 km roundtrip).
Day 6: Odeceixe -> Aljezur
After 5 days on the coast, the trail turns a little more inland. There are some parts with forest, and we walk on gravel roads between fields. It is nice to have some change and experience a little different kind of Portugal as well. The day is foggy, which makes walking easier, and we finish a few kilometres shy of Aljezur on an official campground, Camping Serrão. There is a small shop with essentials, and so we decide to enjoy a bottle of wine to relax our legs.
Day 7: Aljezur -> Arrifana
In Aljezur, we find a cafe to enjoy the mandatory Pasteis de Nata together with coffee. What a privilege this trail, to be able to take the most of the delicious Portuguese cuisine. There is some more road walking after which the trail returns to the coast. It is a nice feeling to be back at the sea. We walk next to wide beaches and observe a group of orange shirts taking a surf class. We continue a little bit after Arrifana and find a hidden spot among the woods on top of a hill.
Day 8: Arrifana -> Carrapateira
I wake up, open the tent door, and for some reason, can’t find my flipflops. I look around and see one of them in the middle of the field. I exit the tent, start to look around and then find another one in the bushes. But not in great shape. The flip-flop has bite marks on it, and the upper part is bitten apart. Who came at night and ate my flip-flop? No idea.
Again, we pack up early, leave no trace and have a late breakfast while already on the way. For the first half of the day, we walk inland until we reach one of the longest beach strips. We head down from the cliff, take off our shirts and shoes and continue the hike on the beachfront. We have quite some time left, so we decide to chill a little and enjoy the beach and the waves. Naturalism is not that uncommon on Portuguese beaches, and so the same on Praia da Bordeira. The beach is 3 km long, wild and wide, with plenty of space for people. Clothing is optional, and there is plenty of space to feel distant from others’ looks.
After 5 nights of camping, we take an opportunity for a proper bed and stay in a Guest House in Carrapateira.
Day 9: Carrapateira -> Vila do Bispo -> Sagres
The beginning of the day is yet again foggy. We follow the coast, which feels very mysterious with the trail running along the dark cliffs inside the fog and clouds. We have a big plan for today, and so we keep a good pace until we reach Vila do Bispo by afternoon. The official stage ends here, but as the stage is short and we did not find a good accommodation (read: affordable) or camping here, we decided to make 2 stages into 1 and continue our walk from here.
Even though the trail is not difficult and follows mainly gravel roads, the legs start to get tired after a while. We reach the Cape of St. Vincent right before sunset. The straight cliffs into the sea are staggering. It feels like a milestone reaching this far on foot. Cape St Vincent represents the most south-western point of Portugal and mainland Europe.
After flying the drone and having a snack, we keep on going, though. The landscape is wide and open with no possibilities for finding a hidden camping spot. It is another 6 kilometres along the road to reach an official campsite just before Sagres. We get there already in the dark.
Today, we have walked almost 40 kilometres.
Day 10: Sagres -> Salema
It is a long morning, and it takes a while to get moving. We finally get to Sagres, stop for a mandatory Pasteis de Nata. We make another stop in a corner bar just to drink Sagres beer in Sagres town. It is 1 pm, and we are finally walking out of the town.
The southern coast is turning out to be quite different from the west. More developed, more resorts, more tourists, and the sea is quieter. The west coast is more open to the winds and therefore rougher. A short stint inland, and we receive the first little rain of the Fishermen’s Trail. We find an abandoned house on the way, a perfect shelter for a lunch break.
Before the evening, we take a little detour through Figueira town and stop in a pizza restaurant, O Sabor de Alegria, for some dinner. A beautiful little village. With our stomachs full and hearts happy, we continue to Salema Eco Camp campground for the night.
Day 11: Salema -> Luz -> Lagos
Since the last 2 stages are both 10-12 kilometres, it was a no-brainer to walk them in 1 day. This area is already a lot more developed and passes through resorts and beaches with more sunbathers. The water is turquoise blue. And before you know it, we were already seeing Lagos from the top of the cliffs.
What a satisfaction and a great feeling to finish a long-distance hike, the Fishermen’s Trail, in Portugal. Another dream come true!
Accommodation
As mentioned earlier, it is possible to hike the entire trail by staying in guest houses. These small villages and towns are magical, and the accommodations are very well taken care of. You will have an opportunity to meet the local business owners and contribute to the local economy. It is recommended to plan your hike and make the necessary bookings in advance. That way, you can select the best places for yourself and get the best deals.
Personally, I like to have the flexibility to change the daily distance and make the booking just on the same day or the previous day. It comes at a cost, though; the absolute minimum cost for a room was 60-70 € per night. A bed in a shared hostel room was about 30 €. The prices are lower, and there is more availability when you book more in advance.
The second option is to carry camping gear and stay on officially designated campsites. There are some available almost at the end of each stage. The campsites are not always directly on the trail, though, and sometimes you need to sidetrack for a 4-kilometre round trip.
All the campsites are quite well maintained; they have shared toilets, showers, and sometimes even a small shop. Many caravans and campers use the campsites frequently, and some are staying there for long. You do not need to make a reservation in advance and can turn up at the gate.
The cost of camping for 2 people with a tent was on average 20 € (10 € per person).
Wild camping is not allowed in Portugal, but we took our chances for 2 nights. Both times, I checked satellite images beforehand to find potential hidden spots. It is not very easy, as there are not many forests where to shelter yourself. We set ourselves up at sunset and packed up and left without a trace at sunrise. As it is not allowed, it is actually also not a very comfortable experience.
In summary, in Fishermen’s Trail, we stayed:
- 2 nights guesthouse/hotel
- 2 nights wild camping
- 6 nights official campsite
Cost
The Algarve region is not the cheapest place to visit. The facilities are not directly accommodated for hikers as one might encounter on the Camino de Santiago, for example. On the Fishermen’s Trail, it is possible to spend a large range.
Hiking by yourself, staying in guesthouses, eating in restaurants, it is easy to spend 100-150+ € daily.
Mid-range hikers can expect costs of 50-80 € a day.
And budget hikers (camping, carrying your own food with an occasional cafe) with good budgeting skills can get as low as 20-40 € per day. I did not exactly count how much we spent, but we were in this range.
The trail and reccommendations
On first glance, one might think that hiking the Fishermen’s Trail means walking on the beach for 200+ kilometres. Yes, the trail mainly follows the coast and briefly turns inland, but that does not mean it is all the same. I was pleasantly surprised to enjoy a different environment each day. The soft sandy trails in the north, red cliffs around Almograve, surf beaches, different vegetation, dramatic cliffs at Cape St. Vincent, and resorts with crystal clear sea on the south coast.
The Fishermen’s Trail is very accessible, as it is possible to hike it in a way that is suitable for each one. It is also not necessary to do the whole trail at once, but you can join or leave the trail basically at any point. We set out with the thought of starting and seeing how long we want to (or can) hike. Whether we can make it until the end or just leave the trail at some point.
A beautiful trail, where I would happily return to!
If you are interested in hiking the Fishermen’s Trail and would like some assistance in putting together your trip, then feel free to contact me through the Travel Consultancy page.
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