from Sunrise to Sunset

Thru-hiking NEW Transcaucasian Trail Georgia

September 2022

Georgia has been a well-known and popular tourist destination for a while now. Well of course – the delicious cuisine, welcoming people, epic nature and affordability make Georgia an easy choice for many.

Georgia is home to the Caucasus Mountains and has plenty of established hiking trails to stretch your legs on.
But did you know that a brand NEW long-distance trail that connects Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan has been in development in the last years?

The chances are that if you are reading this post, then you are interested in making this or similar trip yourself, so I will try to answer some questions you might have based on my personal experience.

Table of contents

What is the Transcaucasian Trail

The Transcaucasian Trail Association (TCTA) has been mapping, stitching together routes and even creating new ones throughout the last years (since 2015). Their goal has been to create connecting trails through diverse regions of the Caucasus from the South to the North and from the Black Sea to the Caspian Sea. The expected full length of the trails will be around 3000 kilometres.

By the end of 2022, there is a full thru-hiking trail mapped for Armenia and for Georgia and Azerbaijan, there are a few sections marked.

But don’t get too excited yet! The trails are partly mapped but mostly unmarked and missing the traditional infrastructure that you would see on the Camino de Santiago or the American thru-hikes. So these trails are still a work in progress but TCTA already invites the first intrepid hikers to come and try out the routes. 

After hiking my previous long-distance hike, the Lycian Way in 2021, I was eager to try out something else. To put myself to a test. To find something more challenging. And the TCT exactly strokes the note. There was something alluring, mystical and adventurous to be one of the very first people hiking on these exact trails. 

TCT-2022-Trail-Status
TCT-2022-Trail-Status
Landscapes in Svaneti, Georgia
Landscapes in Svaneti, Georgia

Trail conditions

We started out with a plan to hike only the Upper Svaneti section of TCT Georgia but changed our plans along the way and continued all the way until the border of Armenia. Some fresh conflicts started on the Armenia-Azerbaijani border and we decided to spend the time we have for hiking in Georgia instead.

Navigation

Besides the Upper Svaneti region, there were almost no trail markings. You are fully reliant on your GPS. Some sections can be misleading and it happened more than once that we were 100% sure about following the correct path but when checking the GPS after 15 minutes of walking, finding out that we are way off and needed to backtrace. 

We mainly used 2 apps for navigation – Organic Maps (new Maps.ME) and Gaia GPS.

Colourful autumn forest in Georgia
Colourful autumn forest in Georgia

Trail conditions

As of summer-autumn 2022, many sections of the Georgian part turned out to be fully overgrown. And per suggestions from TCTA and other hikers, we decided to take some alternative trails to avoid complete bushwhacking.

As the TCTA is constantly improving the trails and the conditions are changing I am not going to give out specific recommendations here. The latest information will be handed out directly to the participants of the Trailblazers program.

But for example instead of TCT we decided to follow some sections like:

  • Crossing of Zagar Pass
  • Crossing of Lechkhumi Range. By the way, as we were hiking in the area in late September we did not manage to cross the Lechkhumi Range. We turned around just 50-100m short of the Pass due to snowy/slippery conditions. That meant we needed to hike back for 1.5 days and then find our way out from the tiny village of Mele by hitchhiking. That took us a full day. After that, we joined the trail in Oni again.
  • There were also some re-routes already prepared by the TCTA for sections close to Borjomi.
Tbebi lakes and wild horses
Tbebi lakes and wild horses
Snow-covered Kelida Pass
Snow-covered Kelida Pass

Seasons

As expected, the autumn turned out to be both sunny and rainy, both hot and cold. We began our hike in Svaneti on the 9th of September and some days were really warm. Definitely in the upper 20s (possibly even 30 degrees Celsius) with the sun blazing directly on our heads. In the southern part of Georgia (first half of October), we experienced strong winds and cold weather. Also when camping in higher elevations it also got to freezing conditions and it was around -5 degrees at night or even less. It is important to have good sleeping gear for these temperatures. We got most of our new gear for the season from Matkamaailm. And don’t forget your sunglasses 🙂

Something that really made an impact on our experience was the rain. We were forced to stay put due to rain for whopping 8 days in different guesthouses. It just didn’t make sense to hike in the pouring rain.
Also, due to my inexperience in hiking in these conditions, I did not carry rain pants with me. As soon as the rain hit my pants, it flowed down into my boots and so my hiking boots were full of water in just 10 minutes. And these boots took a long time to dry as well. So even if we happened to hike in a  rainy day we tried to find a guesthouse for the night to get dry. 

Hiking in Southern Georgia next to Lake Paravani
Hiking in Southern Georgia next to Lake Paravani
Adishi glacier
Adishi glacier
Village roads in Svaneti
Village roads in Svaneti

Food and water

Half of the meals we ate in the guesthouses. Generally, it was possible to get a homestay together with dinner and breakfast. And these meals are usually very large and delicious. We also brought some dried foods from home and tried to find the rest necessary from the local markets. It is possible to get fresh vegetables, potatoes and bread on the way from the villages. In some of the bigger towns you can get bigger markets but anything more complicated is more difficult. We did a big restocking trip back to Kutaisi in the middle of the hike. It was 1 day to get there from Mele, 2 days in Kutaisi and then 1 day to get back on the trail in Oni. 

We bought the camping gas in Kutaisi from Westerni-2 store.

We got some ready meals from Forestia in Matkamaailm. Their new system of heating the food is quite stunning. The meals are ready inside of the pouches and it is possible to heat them up with a heat patch and just a little bit of water.

Water is generally widely available in the Caucasus region. There are a few sections though where you need to have water with you for 2 days. It also depends on which season you are hiking in. By autumn, many springs and smaller streams might have dried up.

Self-heating ready-meals from Forestia
Self-heating ready-meals from Forestia

Accommodation and camping

Guesthouses are widely available and affordable in Georgia. Especially in Svaneti, there are plenty of options to choose from. It gets a bit trickier in the central parts to find a place used to hikers but still possible to find your place for the night. Anyways, you probably want and need to be camping a lot as well. 

Wild camping is allowed in Georgia and it is not too difficult to find a spot for your tent.

Camping next to Utviri Pass
Camping next to Utviri Pass
Camping somewhere in Georgia
Camping somewhere in Georgia

TCT Georgia hiking diary

Day 0 – 8th September 2022
40 lari – bus Kutaisi to Mestia
Hitchhiking to Chuberi, Kvemo Marghi
140 lari – guesthouse Babi. 1 night, dinner and breakfast.

Day 1 – 9th September, 34000 steps 22km
Kvemo Marghi to Utviri Pass 2718m
Camping at subzero temps.

Day 2 – 10th September, 22000 steps 15km
Utviri Pass to Nakra
Green House guesthouse. 1 night, dinner, breakfast 60 lari per person.

Day 3 – 11th September, 32500 steps 23km
Nakra to Pari
Lerimari guesthouse. 1 night, dinner, breakfast 50 lari per person.

Day 4 – 12th September, 34000 steps 22km
Pari to Mazeri (over Bak Pass 2419m)
Shuan guesthouse. 1 night, dinner, breakfast 70 lari per person

Day 5 and 6 – 13th and 14th of September.
Rest day at Mazeri due to rain.
Also got sick. Stomach issues – I puked at night. Also diarrhoea and weakness (maybe fever).
Ursula with period and also felt sick when we left the next day.
Shuani Guesthouse. 35 double ensuite room + dinner + 15 breakfast= 70 per person

Day 7 – 15th of September, 24000 steps, 14km
Mazeri to Guli pass 2954m.
Camping 1 hour after the pass.

Day 8 – 16th September, 15700 steps, 11km
Guli pass to Mestia
Mari Guesthouse, 20 lari for room + 20 lari breakfast in total = 40 lari per person

Day 9 – 17th September, 35500 steps, 21km
Mestia to camping after Zhabeshi before the ski lift

Day 10 – 18th September, 28500 steps, 21km
Camp to another camp after Adishi under the glacier next to the river crossing

Day 11 – 19th September, 30000 steps, 19km
Wake up at camp and half an hour trek to Adishi Glacier. Roundtrip 3h.
Leave camp at 12 pm and cross ice cold glacier river with a really strong current.
Hike over Chkhunderi Pass 2720m and arrive at Lalkhori.
Sweet Home Guesthouse – 60 lari per person with dinner and breakfast.

Day 12 – 20th September, 22500 steps, 14,5km
Lalkhori to Ushguli.
Guesthouse Miranda – 60 lari per room 1 night = 30 lari per person. We ate outside.

Day 13 – 21st September, rain day (rest day) in Ushguli.
Went to watch a movie – Dede

Day 14 – 22nd September, 31000 steps, 22km
Ushguli to Tsana
Stay in Tsana Guesthouse – 50 lari per person bed, dinner and breakfast.
Also unlimited homemade wine and cha-cha.
We gave extra 20 lari for drinks.
Was quite a party

Day 15 – 23rd September, 15500 steps, 12km
Tsana to Mele
Guesthouse Rati – 60 lari per person with dinner and breakfast.
Started raining from the very beginning.
And was raining hard so we hitchhiked the last 8-9km to the next village.

Day 16 – 24th September
Rain day inside

Day 17 – 25th September, 35000 steps, 21.5km
Mele to a small campsite before Kelida Pass (crossing Lechkhumi range)
A lot of uphill, and river crossing an hour before camp.

Day 18 – 26th September, 19000 steps, 9.25km
Campsite – Tbebi lakes – Kelida Pass – back down all the way to river crossing (camping next to abandoned hut)
Going up took more time because Ursula was frozen from last night and the river crossing. Encountered snow just 150m below the pass. Tried to make a push for it but it was too slippery/dangerous to continue.
Came back down and camped before the river crossing.

Day 19 – 27th September, 25500 steps, 19.6km
Camp at river crossing – Mele
Rati Guesthouse again.

Day 20 – 28th September, 18000 steps,
Hitchhike from Mele to Kutaisi.
2h walking in the beginning from Mele.
1st hitch to Chvelpi
2nd hitch to Lentekhi.
From there a bus to Kutaisi.
Total time on the road – 10h
Stay in Coffee Guesthouse – 60 lari/room in total

Day 21 – 29th September
@Kutaisi
Restocking – camping gas, snacks, food, socks, underwear

Day 22 – 30th September
@Kutaisi

Day 23 – 1st October
Bus from Kutaisi to Oni 5h
Stay in Guesthouse Madana – 60 lari for a room (2 people, no food)

 

Day 24 – 2nd October, 36000 steps, 21,5km
Oni to the campsite on a ridge.
Uphill, beginning on village roads, 2nd half on trails which were partly overgrown and unmarked. Bear droppings on the trail.
Nice campsite, the wind started at night.

Day 25 – 3rd October, 50000 steps, 34km
Campsite – Drbo – Sachkhere
Start at 8 am, with a bit of wind and rain. Inside of clouds, heavy rain 10-13 pm. Super wet. Lost the GPS trail several times around noon in the forest. In general, the whole section is unmarked. A lot of bear droppings, used the cowbell and tried to make noise (speak, sing) all the time. Later easier downhill. Late evening heavy downhill and last 6-8km on fields and muddy clay roads also through river 8 times. Got to a small Drbo village in the pitch black dark with headlamps.
Nobody was around, but after a while, managed to stop a group of kids who helped us to get a ride to a bigger town 10km away. Found a guesthouse after half an hour of searching and help from locals. Got to the guesthouse at 9 pm. Soaked and exhausted.

Day 26 – 4th October, 9000 steps
Rest day @ Sachkhere
Marso Guesthouse – 50 lari for a room (2 people, no food). Drying boots and clothes.

Day 27 – 5th October, 20000 steps, 11km
Sachkhere – Speti – campsite
Starting uphill through the village landscape. On the higher ridge large open farmlands with grass. The trail follows the car dirt track. Camping early on the side of a field due to rain in the forecast.

Day 28 – 6th October, 32000 steps, 25km(21?)
Campsite – Chalovani “campsite/guesthouse”
Downhill to a river and then following the river on a dirt track. Some houses/farms on the way.
To a big highway for 1.5km and then to a concrete road that goes through multiple villages.
No good place to camp and no guesthouses so we asked around for a place to stay or where to put a tent. Some guy directed us to a house with empty beds. The guys who usually stay here were not here. The room was very basic and we pitched the tent inside. No charge.

Day 29 – 7th October, 38000 steps, 24km
Chalovani house – Tsakva – campsite after Tsakva
Along concrete and then dirt road among small villages the whole day. Warm day.
Got to a bigger highway and then hitched 2km along to a restaurant. Delicious linner and then 1h/250m up after village.. camping on a field.

Day 30 – 8th October, 36000 steps, 25km
Campsite – Tsipa – Khashuri
Guesthouse Metreveli Street 19 – 50 for a room for one night. No food but can use the kitchen
Really windy night (20 m/s), also some locals came by with their guns.. they were hunting or something. Morning pack up fast to get away from the winds.
Hiking on dirt roads. Got to an overgrown trail.. tried to get through but it was not possible. We tracked back and followed another trail down.
From Tsipa started walking and tried to hitchhike.. the first car that appeared after half an hour picked us up. The locals were from Tbilisi. They took us for lunch which they paid for and took us a bit off their route to our destination – Khashuri.

Day 31- 9th October
Khashuri, rain day/rest day
Guesthouse Metreveli Street 19 – 50 lari a night for a room

Day 32 – 10th October
Khashuri to Zanavi bus – 5 lari/person
Stay in Zanavi Guesthouse Hotel Strawberry – 70 lari a night for room and dinner (total). Also included a bottle of homemade wine.

Day 33 – 11th of October, 36000 steps, 23km
Zanavi – Timotesubani camping
Dirt road uphill 1100m. Some wild horses at one point who got a bit aggressive.
At 2000m walked in the clouds and it rained a bit when coming back down. The path in the autumn forest was absolutely beautiful. While coming down saw a bear who ran across the road just 30m in front of us.

Day 34 – 12th of October, 37500 steps, 27km
Timotesubani camp – Tabatskuri Lake
Tabatskuri Guesthouse – 100 lari for room, dinner and breakfast for 2.
The first part is uphill on dirt tracks and forest paths. Out of the forest got onto wide open fields of Lesser Caucasus. Walked to the lake and to a guesthouse.

Day 35 – 13th of October, 43300 steps, 33km
Tabatskuri Guesthouse – Shepherd camp
First 10km on road against the wind. Then up the hill a bit and continue on large open fields. Following mainly the GPS trail on the grass fields. After a while catch up with sheep herders who were going the same way as us. We were trying to pass them from the side and things got nasty with the dogs many times.
After some time reached an area full of different herds and dogs. Talked to a shepherd and was invited to stay with them.
Spent the evening and night with 3 shepherds in their tent. They gave us their beds and slept on the dirt floor on top of sheep skins themselves. We tried to convince them otherwise but they didn’t take no for an answer.

Day 36 – 14th of October, 35000 steps, 24km
Shepherd camp – Lake Paravani – Gandzani
Stay @ Family Corner Guesthouse – 70 lari per room a night. Food separate.
First went downhill from the camp diverting the herds/dogs. Reached the lake and continued on the coast on grassy paths. After Aspara started raining a bit and got offered a ride by a local which we decided to take. Lunch at Poka fast food place. Then walked along farming fields to Gandzani.
We decided to finish here because the weather looked bad for the following week. It was only 28km to the border.

Cows are everywhere in Georgia
Cows are everywhere in Georgia
Lake Tabatskuri in Southern Georgia
Lake Tabatskuri in Southern Georgia

Resources

The only place you should trust from getting the most up-to-date information at the moment is the website of the Transcaucasian Trail Association – https://transcaucasiantrail.org/en/home/

In order to get access to GPX/KML tracks of the trails you should register with them for the Trailblazers program. Upon registering for the program you will gain access to a lot more information and become a member of the Slack forum. All the other hikers are also there and they use this platform for sharing the latest information, updates and tips for the hikes.

In 2022 these GPX tracks did not hold any extra information besides the path itself. Everything related to possible camping sites, water sources, accommodations etc you need to figure out yourself. A true adventure!

Open volcanic fields in Southern Georgia
Open volcanic fields in Southern Georgia
Autumn in Svaneti
Autumn in Svaneti

Video

The experience of hiking the TCT is fully summarized in the video we have produced. Besides showing the diverse landscapes we also talk about the options for food, equipment and meet the local people of Georgia.

Enjoy! 

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